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How to Make a Shed Base Without Concrete (UK Methods)

UK Guide • No Concrete Needed

How to Make a Shed Base Without Concrete (UK Methods)

Want a solid shed foundation without mixing, pouring, or waiting for concrete to cure? Below are four proven, UK-friendly ways to build a shed base without concrete—with step-by-step instructions, drainage tips, and common mistakes to avoid.

If you’re still choosing the right building, start here: Build Your Shed Delivery & Installation

What you’ll learn

  1. When a no-concrete base is best
  2. Ground prep (the part that matters most)
  3. Method 1: Gravel base + timber frame
  4. Method 2: Dry-laid paving slab base
  5. Method 3: Plastic grid foundation
  6. Method 4: Blocks + treated bearers
  7. Mistakes that cause shed floors to rot or twist
  8. FAQ
Quick rule: Your shed base should be level, firm, and slightly raised with good drainage. Most “base problems” are actually prep problems.
10x8 pent shed with a single door and two windows installed in a garden - example of why a level shed base matters
A stable shed starts with a flat, free-draining base—especially in wet UK gardens.

When a no-concrete shed base is best

A no-concrete base is ideal if you want a faster install, improved drainage, easier DIY handling, or you’re working on a garden that’s hard to access with materials. It can also be easier to adjust later if the ground settles.

If you’re unsure about planning rules for sheds/outbuildings, check official guidance first: Planning Portal – Outbuildings and GOV.UK – Permitted development technical guidance.

Ground prep (the part that matters most)

Whether you choose gravel, slabs, grids, or blocks, the prep steps are almost the same:

  • Choose the spot: avoid low-lying areas where water sits after rain.
  • Mark out the base: make it the shed footprint + 50–100mm all around.
  • Remove turf/topsoil: dig down to firm ground.
  • Add a geotextile membrane: helps stop weeds and keeps sub-base from mixing with soil.
  • Install a sub-base: typically compacted MOT Type 1 for stability and drainage.
  • Level carefully: check both directions (and diagonals) as you compact.
Drainage tip: permeable surfaces like gravel can help rainwater soak away instead of pooling. RHS has a useful explainer on permeable paving and water run-off in gardens: RHS – Permeable paving.
7x6 timber pent shed side view with secure hinges - timber sheds benefit from airflow under the floor
Whatever base you build, aim for airflow and keep timber raised above wet ground.

Method 1: Gravel base + timber frame (most popular DIY option)

This is a strong, affordable method for UK gardens and works brilliantly with pressure-treated bearers. It’s also very forgiving if you need to tweak levels later.

Materials

  • MOT Type 1 sub-base (compacted)
  • Geotextile membrane
  • 20mm angular gravel (or similar)
  • Pressure-treated timber to form a perimeter frame
  • Spikes/pegs + exterior screws
  • Spirit level + long straight edge

Steps

  1. Excavate to firm ground and lay membrane.
  2. Add MOT Type 1 in layers (50mm at a time) and compact until solid.
  3. Build a square timber frame to the finished base size; check diagonals match.
  4. Fix the frame in place with pegs/spikes and re-check level.
  5. Fill with gravel and rake level; compact lightly.
  6. Install the shed on treated bearers so timber doesn’t sit directly on stone.

This base is ideal for many timber buildings—especially if you’re ordering a new shed and want it installed properly. See options here: Shop All Sheds Pent Sheds Apex Sheds

Method 2: Dry-laid paving slab base (no concrete pour)

A paving slab base can be built without pouring a concrete slab. The key is a well-compacted sub-base and a properly prepared laying course so the slabs don’t rock.

Best for

  • Small to medium sheds
  • Gardens where you want a tidy, easy-to-sweep perimeter
  • Sites with good access for materials

Steps

  1. Excavate, lay membrane, and compact MOT Type 1 sub-base.
  2. Add a thin laying course (often sharp sand) and screed roughly level.
  3. Lay slabs, tapping down and checking level constantly.
  4. Re-check across diagonals; adjust any rocking slabs before moving on.

If you want a manufacturer-backed reference for paving installation principles (levels, bedding, stability), Marshalls publish installation guidance you can follow: Marshalls – paving installation guidelines (PDF).

12x8 pent wooden security shed with side windows - a secure shed benefits from a firm, level base
Heavier security sheds need a firm, flat base—gravel frames, slabs, or blocks can all work when prepped well.

Method 3: Plastic grid foundation (fast, clean, great drainage)

Plastic grid systems create a stable, free-draining base that you fill with gravel. They’re quick to lay and especially useful in wetter parts of the UK where you want water to pass through rather than puddle.

Steps

  1. Excavate and compact a Type 1 sub-base (don’t skip this for larger sheds).
  2. Lay membrane and place the grid panels.
  3. Fill grids with gravel and level off.
  4. Install shed on bearers to maintain airflow under the floor.

Choosing a pressure-treated building can reduce maintenance long-term: Browse Pressure Treated Sheds

Method 4: Blocks + treated bearers (best for uneven ground)

If your garden has a slight slope, a block-and-bearer approach can be easier than trying to build up a full pad. You level a set of solid supports, then fix bearers across them.

Steps

  1. Mark out support points (corners + every 1–1.2m depending on shed size/weight).
  2. Excavate each point, add compacted sub-base, then place blocks.
  3. Level each block carefully to the same height (this is the whole job).
  4. Fix pressure-treated bearers across the blocks and install the shed.
Pro tip: Don’t place timber directly on soil. Raising the floor helps reduce damp risk and improves airflow.

This is a great match for workshops and heavy-duty buildings: Workshop Sheds Heavy Duty Sheds

Mistakes that cause shed floors to rot or twist

Mistake What happens Fix
Base not level (even slightly) Doors stick, windows bind, felt and cladding strain Level the base, not the shed. Check diagonals + long straight edge.
No membrane under sub-base Type 1 sinks into soil; weeds push through Use a proper geotextile layer before Type 1.
Not enough compaction Settling, rocking slabs, gaps under bearers Compact in layers; take time on the Type 1.
Poor drainage / base sits in a puddle zone Damp underfloor, mould risk, faster timber wear Choose permeable surfaces and a slightly raised finish.

If you’d prefer a professional install (base prep + shed), see: Delivery & Installation

FAQ: Shed base without concrete

How deep should I dig for a shed base in the UK?

It depends on soil and shed weight, but a typical DIY approach is to remove turf/topsoil down to firm ground, then build up with compacted sub-base and your chosen finish (gravel, grids, or slabs). The key is stability and drainage.

Is gravel better than slabs?

Gravel (especially with a timber frame or grid) usually drains better and is easier to adjust. Slabs look tidy and are easy to keep clean, but they must be laid on a very stable, well-compacted base so they don’t rock.

Do I need planning permission for a shed base?

Often no, but rules depend on height, placement, and whether your property is in a restricted area. Use official guidance: Planning Portal and GOV.UK technical guidance.

What shed is best for storing bikes or motorbikes?

For bikes and motorbikes, prioritise security features and a stable base that stays dry. See: Motorbike Sheds and Security Sheds.

How to Build a Shed Base (UK Ground Conditions Explained)

How to Build a Shed Base (UK Ground Conditions Explained)

A shed is only as good as its base. In the UK, ground conditions vary massively (clay, sand, slopes, waterlogged lawns), so the “best” shed base depends on drainage, stability, and the shed size. This guide shows you how to choose the right base type and build it properly.

Choose the right shed base type

Most UK shed bases fall into three categories. Here’s when each makes sense:

  • Concrete slab: best for larger sheds, workshops, heavy loads, and long-term stability.
  • Paving slab base: great all-rounder for medium sheds where you want a solid, tidy finish without pouring concrete.
  • Gravel base: best for drainage-focused areas and smaller sheds (but only if properly edged and compacted).

Trusted how-to references: Pavingexpert – Plain concrete bases and Travis Perkins – Preparing ground for a concrete slab.

Large wooden garden shed 13x8 installed on a concrete base with double doors, three side windows, and a felted apex roof
Larger sheds usually benefit from a concrete base for long-term stability. If you’re sizing up, see large wooden sheds or workshop sheds.
Large wooden shed 24x12 in a gravel garden with tanalised timber, apex felt roof, wide double doors and five windows
Gravel can work brilliantly for drainage — but only with proper edging, compaction, and a firm sub-base. Explore durable builds: heavy duty sheds or pressure treated sheds.

UK ground conditions (what changes and why)

Before you dig, do a quick reality check on your garden. The UK commonly has:

  • Clay soil: can hold water and move with wet/dry seasons. You’ll want excellent drainage and a well-compacted sub-base.
  • Sandy/loamy soil: drains well but can be less stable if not compacted properly.
  • Waterlogged ground: needs drainage-first thinking (gravel layer, fall away from the shed, and airflow under the floor).
  • Slopes: need retaining edges or leveling (don’t “wing it” with loose packers).
Pro tip: If your lawn stays soggy after rain, don’t build a shed base straight onto bare soil. Prioritise drainage and airflow under the floor (bearers + level base).

Getting the base size and level right

  • Make the base slightly bigger than the shed: typically 50–100mm extra on each side for concrete/slabs (manufacturer guidance varies).
  • Level matters more than perfection: a shed on an unlevel base twists, doors stick, and windows won’t sit square.
  • Keep timber off wet ground: use bearers and a base that prevents puddling around the walls.

If you’re choosing a shed first, use the Shed Builder to lock in the size, then build the base to suit. For ready-to-go options, browse shop sheds.

How to build a concrete shed base (step-by-step)

A concrete base is the go-to for heavier sheds, frequent footfall, and UK gardens with inconsistent ground. Here’s a practical build method used for most domestic shed bases.

  1. Mark out the base using string lines and pegs. Check diagonals match (that’s how you know it’s square).
  2. Excavate the area. Remove turf and soft topsoil until you hit firm ground.
  3. Add sub-base (MOT Type 1) in layers and compact thoroughly. This is where most DIY bases fail.
  4. Add a sand blinding layer (thin) to protect the membrane and help leveling.
  5. Lay a DPM (damp proof membrane) if you’re pouring concrete (helps reduce moisture migration).
  6. Set your formwork and level it carefully. The concrete will follow whatever level you set here.
  7. Pour and level concrete. Use a straight edge to screed level, then float the surface.
  8. Cure properly. Keep it from drying too fast in warm weather; avoid heavy loads until it’s set.

Trusted guides: Pavingexpert – Plain concrete bases and Pavingexpert – Concrete hardstandings (thickness guidance).

How to build a paving slab base (step-by-step)

A slab base is a strong choice for medium wooden sheds and many everyday garden sheds. It can handle UK weather well if the sub-base and leveling are done correctly.

  1. Dig out the footprint and remove all soft ground.
  2. Lay and compact sub-base (Type 1) in layers.
  3. Bed slabs on mortar (not just sand) for stability.
  4. Check level as you go using a long straight edge and spirit level.
  5. Finish joints and allow the bed to firm up before loading.
Best practice: A slab base can look level but still have “high corners.” Always check across the diagonals with a long straight edge.

When gravel bases work (and when they don’t)

Gravel bases are popular for drainage, but they must be built like a mini driveway: firm sub-base, proper edging, and compacted gravel. They’re often best paired with smaller sheds like small sheds or specialist storage like motorbike sheds.

  • Works well if: your ground is wet, you add edging, and you compact properly.
  • Avoid if: your site is sloped and you can’t retain the gravel, or you’re placing a very heavy workshop shed.
Illustration of heavy duty timber used for sheds
Heavier builds deserve stronger bases. If you’re planning a high-load use (tools, benches, bikes), look at heavy duty sheds or workshop sheds.

Common shed base mistakes to avoid

  • Skipping compaction: the base settles, the shed twists, doors stop closing properly.
  • Building on soft topsoil: it holds moisture and compresses over time.
  • No drainage plan: water pools around the shed walls and shortens timber life.
  • Base too small: edges crumble, bearers sit awkwardly, floors flex.
  • Ignoring boundary rules: if you’re close to a boundary and building big, check planning/building guidance.

Planning/building regs context for outbuildings: Planning Portal – Outbuildings planning permission and Planning Portal – Building regs for outbuildings.

FAQs

What is the best shed base for clay soil in the UK?

Clay can hold water and move seasonally, so prioritise drainage and stability: a well-compacted sub-base and either a concrete slab or a properly bedded paving slab base. Avoid placing a shed directly on soft ground.

Should a shed base be bigger than the shed?

Typically yes — many installers aim for around 50–100mm extra on each side for concrete/slab bases, but always follow the shed’s fitting guidance if provided. The key is full support for bearers/floor edges.

Do I need a damp proof membrane (DPM) under a concrete shed base?

A DPM is commonly used under concrete slabs to reduce moisture migration. It’s especially useful in damp areas, but your full build-up (sub-base, drainage, and airflow) matters just as much.

Can I build a shed base on a slope?

Yes, but you must create a level platform (often with retaining edges). Don’t rely on loose packers or “wedging” the shed—this leads to movement and frame twist.

How Many Sheds Can I Have in My Garden? UK Rules Explained

How Many Sheds Can I Have in My Garden (UK)?

In the UK, there’s no fixed legal limit on the number of sheds you can have.
What matters is whether your sheds (collectively) stay within permitted development rules
— mainly coverage, height, placement, and whether your home/location has restrictions.

Design a Shed (Shed Builder)
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Contents

Quick answer

You can have multiple sheds in your garden if (overall) they meet permitted development rules.
The most common “cap” is:

  • Coverage: outbuildings + extensions must not cover more than 50% of the land around the original house (excluding the footprint of the original house).
  • Height: typically 2.5m max if the shed is within 2m of a boundary; otherwise up to 4m (apex) or 3m (other roof types).
  • Position: sheds usually can’t be in front of the principal elevation of your house.
  • Restrictions: listed buildings, flats/maisonettes, conservation areas, and other designations can change the rules.

Trusted guidance: Planning Portal – Outbuildings (Planning Permission) and
GOV.UK – Permitted development technical guidance.

What actually limits how many sheds you can have

Think of it like a “rules checklist” rather than a number.
You could have one large shed or several smaller sheds — and both can be fine —
as long as the combined footprint and overall heights/locations stay within the rules.

Large wooden garden shed 13x8 with double doors, three side windows, and felted apex roof on a concrete base
A larger shed can use up your “allowed coverage” quickly — but can replace multiple smaller units if you need one main storage/work space.
Explore options: Garden sheds or Wooden sheds.
Pent wooden security shed 12x8 with side windows
A dedicated security shed can free up space in your main shed.
See: Security sheds and
Heavy duty sheds.

Permitted development rules (most common UK scenario)

For many homeowners, sheds count as outbuildings. Outbuildings can often be installed without full planning permission
if they meet permitted development limits and conditions.

1) The 50% coverage rule (this is the big one)

The government guidance explains that the total ground area covered by buildings (outbuildings + additions) within the curtilage
must not exceed 50% of the curtilage (excluding the original house). This is why the “how many sheds” answer is usually:
“as many as fit under the 50% rule.”
(Source: GOV.UK permitted development technical guidance)

2) Height rules (especially near boundaries)

Common limits include:

  • Within 2m of a boundary: maximum overall height is typically 2.5m.
  • More than 2m from a boundary: up to 4m for an apex roof or 3m for other roof types (including pent roofs).

Reference: Planning Portal – Outbuildings planning permission limits.

3) Placement & special restrictions

  • Front garden / principal elevation: outbuildings generally aren’t permitted in front of the principal elevation.
  • Designated land: National Parks, AONBs, conservation areas, etc. can limit what’s allowed.
  • Listed buildings: outbuildings in the curtilage may require planning permission.
  • Flats & maisonettes: permitted development allowances differ (often not available).

Tip: If you’re planning multiple sheds, choose lower-profile roof styles for boundary edges.
Browse roof styles: Apex sheds and Pent sheds.

Do building regulations apply to sheds in the UK?

Building regulations are a separate question from planning permission.
In many cases, small detached outbuildings are exempt, especially when used as a shed/summerhouse with no sleeping accommodation,
and depending on size and boundary distance/materials.

  • Under 15m²: often exempt (typical guidance says building regs “will not normally apply”).
  • 15m²–30m²: may be exempt if there’s no sleeping accommodation and the building is at least 1m from a boundary (or constructed substantially of non-combustible materials).

Trusted references:
Planning Portal – Building regulations for outbuildings
and LABC – Outbuilding building regs overview.

Illustration showing heavy duty timber for sheds
If you’re adding more than one structure, prioritise robust materials and secure fixings for longevity.
Explore: Heavy duty sheds and Large wooden sheds.

Practical layout tips (so multiple sheds still look great)

  • Split by purpose: one for tools/storage, one for bikes/motorbikes, one as a workshop.
  • Keep taller apex sheds away from boundaries (helps with height limits and shading).
  • Use a “service lane”: leave 60–90cm behind sheds for maintenance and airflow where possible.
  • Match cladding/colour: repeating finishes makes separate sheds look intentional.
  • Think access first: if you can’t wheel something in/out easily, you’ll stop using the space.

Plan Your Layout (Shed Builder)
Installation Help

Best shed types for multi-shed gardens

Here are common “multi-shed” setups that work well in UK gardens:

Timber garden shed 7x6 side angle with shiplap cladding, felt roof, and secure door hinges
Smaller sheds are ideal for “zoning” your garden storage.
Browse: Small sheds and Medium sheds.
Standard pent shed 10x8 with single door and two windows
A pent shed can be a smart choice near boundaries due to lower roof profiles (check height limits).
Shop: Pent sheds or Pressure treated sheds.

Want one shed that does it all? See sizes:
Medium wooden sheds and
Large wooden sheds.

Browse All Garden Sheds
Shop Large Sheds

FAQs

Is there a maximum number of sheds allowed in a UK garden?

Usually there’s no set number. The “limit” is whether your sheds (in total) stay within permitted development rules,
especially the 50% coverage rule, height limits, and placement restrictions.
If you exceed those limits, you may need planning permission.

Can I put two sheds right next to each other?

You can, but treat it like one larger mass: check total footprint, boundary height rules, access for maintenance,
and drainage/ground preparation. If the combined setup pushes you over permitted development limits, you may need permission.

Do I need planning permission for a shed used as a workshop?

A workshop that’s incidental to the enjoyment of the house is often treated as an outbuilding.
If it stays within permitted development limits, it may not need planning permission — but always check restrictions for your property and area.
For official guidance, use the Planning Portal outbuildings page linked above.

Will adding multiple sheds affect selling my house?

It can if something was built without required permissions or breaches rules. Keep purchase/installation documents,
measure footprints, and keep a simple plan showing distances and heights for peace of mind.

Need help choosing? Start here:
Shop sheds |
Wooden sheds |
Workshop sheds

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